We are here to help you and highly recommend consulting our FAQ section before any purchasing decision is made. Here at Bioenno Power, we are dedicated first and foremost to satisfying your requirements and helping with your application. The information provided below should provide answers to most common questions. If you do not see an answer to your question, please contact us directly at:
+1 888 336 7864
LFP: How do I maintain the LiFePO4 battery?
General: Can I jump a Lithium Iron Phosphate battery?
General: I noticed the Max and Peak Continuous Discharge on the label may be different from the website and why?
What are Li-Ion Batteries?
Li-ion batteries are rechargeable batteries that use lithium ions which move from a negative electrode to a positive electrode. They are popular batteries for use in consumer electronics because they provide good energy density, no memory effect, and a slow loss of charge when not in use. These batteries come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. In addition, compared to lead-acid batteries, Li-ion batteries are lighter and provide a higher open circuit voltage, which allows for power transfer at lower currents. These batteries have the following characteristics:
- Enhanced safety
- Exceptional low temperature performance
- Good cycle life
- High abuse tolerance*
- High capacity
- High rate capability
- High temperature performance
*Applies to LiFEPO4 only, does not apply to Cobalt Oxide or Lithium Polymer
The term "Li-ion" battery is a general term like the term "car" and refers to many different types of Lithium. There are many different chemistries for Li-Ion batteries including LiCoO2 (cylindrical cell), LiPo, and LiFePO4 (cylindrical/prismatic cell). Bioenno Power currently is focusing on design, manufacturing, and marketing of LiFePO4 (LFP) batteries.
The different types of Li-ion batteries have different characteristics. Typically when the term "Li-ion" is used in a product description what is being sold may be either LiCoO2 (Cobalt Oxide) or LiPo (Lithium Polymer) unless LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) is specifically named. This is the rule of thumb because LiCoO2 and LiPo are the most common types of Lithium. The LiCoO2 in particular is cheaper and has a high power density but as a trade off has drastically shortened service life and is chemically and thermally unstable. Within this lineup LiFePO4 is unique for its aforementioned performance benefits. Compared with the older LiCoO2, LiPo and other chemistry such as AGM, SLA and NiCad, the current state-of-the-art LiFePO4 is essentially a new and entirely different chemistry unique unto itself.
What are LiPo (lithium-polymer) batteries?
LiPo batteries are a type of Li-Ion battery used for a variety of high current discharge applications such as in RC toy models (cars, helicopters, airplanes, boats, etc.). They are also used in various consumer electronics because of their compact size.The LiPo batteries are comprised of cells that are stacked in series/parallel configurations. Each cell contains anode and cathode plates with a gel electrolyte that are placed in a pouch. These batteries are low in costs, can be packaged into a variety of shapes (which is important for use in electronics such as cell phones), light in weight, and rugged.
What are PCMs and what do they do?
In essence these are a type of single-board microcomputer. PCMs, or protection circuit modules, are a type of battery management system (BMS) for the expressed purpose of regulating output of current from the battery to electrical loads, managing and internally balancing the cell pack in addition to regulating charging. They are there to protect the cells from damage. If your electric load exceeds the power load of the battery the PCM shuts the battery off to protect the cells from damage. This is a safeguard to preserve maximum functionality of our batteries and to, effectively, abuse-proof within a certain extent. Our entire range of batteries all come equipped with top of the line sophisticated PCMs unlike a large number of our competitors. We tested our products. It is almost impossible to screw up our batteries because our integrated intelligent systems automatically shuts off the battery before damage can be done to it. Our PCMS offer the following features:
- Balancing function for cells
- Overcurrent protection
- Overvoltage protection
- Overdischarge protection (also known as undervoltage)
- Temperature protection
- Short circuit protection
- Charging Circuitry integrated
Make sure to charge the battery every 8 to 10 weeks in order to keep the cells well equalized and balanced, and ensure that the battery is operable. The PCM pulls a small amount of power to equalize the cells and requires periodic charging to ensure continued operation of the battery.
LFP: How many Watt-hours of batteries am I allowed to carry-on for aircraft?
All LiFePO4 batteries must be brought on your carried-on luggage. They cannot be placed in your checked luggage. For domestic flights, you are allowed up to 160 Watt-hours. For international flights you are allowed up to 100 Watt-hours. Please refer to the link below. Print out the sheet below when flying, and also take a copy of your FCC Ham Radio license with you. Mention you are a ham radio operator with radio equipment and batteries, with the printed sheet and copy of your FCC license.
For more info, please check Batteries Carried by Airline Passengers FAQ[PDF]
LFP: Why is there a separate DC barrel plug connector and PowerPole Connector on my battery? Can I charge through either connector?
On our PVC Pack LiFePO4 batteries, there are two separate connectors. The first connector has a DC barrel plug and the second connector has an Anderson Powerpole connector. The two connectors are indeed wired in parallel on the PCM (protection circuit module) that is integrated in every single battery pack. So it is perfectly okay and fine to charge through the PowerPole connectors. Many customers requested two separate connectors in the batteries, in order to keep the battery's charger attached to the battery, such that the battery and charger can be stored in a portable Go-Box. At the same time, customers can leave the PowerPole connector attached to the radio communications equipment, without having to repeatedly disconnect the charger from the battery, and attach the radio communications equipment. However, we understand customers want to charge through the Powerpole connectors and use various other third party products. We provided the two sets of connectors, simply for convenience purposes.
LFP: What are LFP (Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries)?
Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries use a new type of cathode material that provides several advantages over traditional Li-ion batteries based on LiCoO2. LiFePO4 batteries provide much higher specific capacity, superior thermal and chemical stability, enhanced safety, improved cost performance, enhanced charge and discharge rates, compact size, light weight, and enhanced cycle life. LiFePO4 batteries can offer a cycle life of potentially 2,000-3,000 charge cycles. Typical LFP batteries have an average lifetime of between 5 to 10 years and can be expected to deliver reliable and consistent performance throughout its service life. The characteristics Bioenno Power batteries are proven to offer are as such:
- Enhanced safety
- Exceptional low temperature performance
- Enhanced 2000-3000+ charge cycles
- Enhanced 5-10+ years service life
- High abuse tolerance
- High capacity - a Bioenno Power LFP will generally outperform an SLA with twice its Ah rating.
- High rate capability
- High temperature performance
- Chemical and Thermal stability
- Flat, consistent discharge
- No Memory Effect
- Full depth discharge
- No need for tendering of floating
LiFePO4 batteries themselves come in two distinct types as determined by cell type:
- Deep Cycle LiFePO4: essentially the distinction boils down to the amount of lithium present in each cell and the intended application which in this case is to power electronics for long periods of time. This type is designed with capacity in mind and at its heart stores lots of power in a very small package and as such has more lithium per cell. A deep cycle battery of this chemistry will not be able to crank your engine.
- High Rate LiFePO4: these are for starting motors only, the difference being that this type has dramatically lower lithium content per cell. However, the lower lithium quantity is not an issue because by design this type is only intended to output large bursts of energy for a short amount of time. As such, this type does not need that much lithium. While this type can be mistakenly used for a deep cycle application, doing so incurs significant risk as the high current rating has a high likelihood of damaging your load. These batteries are easy to identify because they have two distinct characteristics: A) a Lead Acid Equivalent Figure and B) have a CCA (Cold Cranking Amp) Rating.
These two types are not to be confused or interchanged. While a High Rate will be able to power electronics, it will only do so momentarily as they by design do not have the storage capacity needed for extended use. Moreover, the high current ceiling will not mitigate current spikes the occurrence of which will damage your equipment. If you are powering equipment, you require Deep Cycle Batteries. If you are starting motors or powering your flash on your camera, the High Rate is the one for you. Remember the following rule of thumb:
Deep cycle/deep discharge and high rate/starter are two different batteries even if they are from the same chemistry. This holds true for all battery types, even Lead Acid/SLA/GEL/AGM. A battery is either for deep cycle or for starting, never both despite any claims which may be made so make sure to double check your application and confirm your requirements before purchase.
LFP: The terminals/connectors on the battery do not fit my applications, what do I do?
You can change the terminal/connector to whatever type you need without voiding the warranty so long as you do not open the battery or modify the casing*. We can also provide for you any adapters and connectors where possible.
*Please note that putting and/or installing the battery into a third party container such as a Pelican Case, Battery Box or Ammo Can, etc. does not void the warranty. Depending on your application we may actually recommend you purchase a hard-case retrofit.
LFP: I have a universal lead acid charger with high charging current; can I use it instead to charge LiFePO4 batteries?
Bioenno Power does not recommend using lead acid chargers for LiFePO4 batteries. Lead acid batteries charge at 2.30V to 2.45V per cell whereas LiFePO4 batteries require 3.60V per cell. Your battery would potentially be undercharged, so you will not get use of the full capacity of the LiFePO4 battery, nor will balancing be triggered in the LiFePO4 battery pack, both of which are not desired. Furthermore, the floating charge of the lead acid charger is not expected by the battery and can cause problems. We recommend purchasing the battery with the bundled charger.
LFP: Can I buy another of the same LiFePO4 batteries to double the voltage or capacity?
Bioenno Power recommends that you purchase a single battery that meets your voltage and capacity requirement to avoid any potential problems. Problems may arise if you attempt assembly of a larger capacity battery from multiple smaller units. The risks incurred may result in injury depending on output of battery. It is important to understand that LFP batteries are not like Legos – you should not attempt to wire them together as such. Our batteries are all computer controlled and should not be confused with the more common SLA, AA, AAA, and other such basic batteries which do not have any type of computer chip control. If your requirements should fall beyond our standard product lines, we have the capability of manufacturing most custom orders. Our experienced staff will assist you to the best of our abilities.
LFP: How come the battery stops working a few seconds after a high current draw?
Make sure the load is not exceeding the rated continuous output current. If the electrical load exceeds the limits of the PCM, the PCM will shut down the pack. To reset, disconnect the electrical load and troubleshoot your load and make sure that the continuous current is less than the maximum continuous current for the pack. To reset the pack, attach the charger back for a few seconds to the battery. If you need a battery with additional current output, please contact us at email@example.com or call us.
LFP: I need more help with the battery that I bought.
Please contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org or call us at +1 888 336 7864
Don't worry. We encourage you to call because Bioenno Power is uniquely committed to finding the perfect solution for your application because every application has its own unique demands. This extends to consultation of application and any other additional or ancillary inquiries.
Solar: Do I really need a solar charge controller?
Yes, it is absolutely necessary and as the most important component you should not leave it out of any solar system. Using a solar setup without an appropriate solar charge controller may damage your battery and/or equipment. It is critical you have a solar charge controller that matches your battery and is scaled properly for your application. When assembling a solar kit this is the most critical component for the following reasons:
- A solar panel does not regulate voltage or current - a solar panel delivers naked voltage and current dependent entirely on the weather conditions.
- Panel voltage and current will vary dramatically. A good panel should come with information on "voltage range" and "current range" which are typically described as "open circuit." In lay terms, this means you can expect any voltage and any current within that range at any given time.
- Voltage and Current fluctuations can potentially damage electronics. Electronic equipment does not like to be subjected to highly varying voltage and current. As such it is critical to deliver smooth and regulated voltage and current to your load.
A solar charge controller will mitigate these factors by regulating and balancing the voltage and current coming from the panel and delivering them to your battery in the appropriate charge method dependent on your battery chemistry. Do not plug an unregulated solar panel directly into your battery or load. A solar charge controller will:
- Monitor the battery's condition and status and the solar panel's condition and status
- Modulate and regulate the voltage and current, giving out a regulate output with no sudden spikes or drops
- Prevent overcharging of battery
- Allow for simultaneous charging and discharging of the battery
Solar: I already have a solar charge controller, so can I use it with your battery?
That depends entirely on which chemistry your solar charge controller is set up for. For example, a unit set up for lead acid with a three stage charge and a float requirement will not properly charge a LiFePO4 battery with a two stage CC/CV constant current constant voltage charge profile. Remember the following rule of thumb:
Even a "universal charger" has specific batteries it can and cannot charge because every type of battery has its own unique charging requirements so make sure to always confirm compatibility before proceeding.
We highly recommend you give us a call if you are not sure or hesitant in this regard. Our technicians will guide you through your application.
Solar: I already have panels, so can I use them with your batteries?
Generally you should have no problem using your existing panels with our batteries. Customers do it all the time. We won't get upset or jealous but we do insist you understand a few things first:
- Check your open circuit voltage - this is the first thing you should check with any solar panel before purchase or usage to confirm the voltage is within acceptable range of your battery voltage. For example, a good solar panel for a 12V battery should give out in the neighborhood of 15V-22V.
- Check your open circuit current - this, like the open circuit voltage, is the where all the important information lies as this figure will allow you to determine charge time and whether or not your panel is oversized or undersized for your battery.
- Wattage is a good benchmark but it doesn't provide the specific information you really need.
- Not all panels are made equal - the performance of your solar panel depends on its age and chemistry (yes, solar panels have chemistry too) and it is proportional to how much you invest. A high quality Monocrystaline Panel such as ours will outperform and outlast a similarly rated cheap Polycrystaline Panel from the local hardware store.
Solar: I want MPPT, I heard it is the best. Do I really need it?
MPPT or Maximum Power Point Tracking is an algorithm that sweeps for the optimal operating parameters to maximize energy capture so yes, it is more efficient. However, this does come with a caveat: whether or not you need MPPT depends entirely on how how many panels you have.
While MPPT is indeed more efficient, you will only see that increase in efficiency if you are carrying a large panel array similar to a fixed installation. If your end goal is portable operations or you do not have a large panel array you will not need MPPT in many cases. In some cases, a good quality PWM or Pulse Width Modulation controller that is compact and lightweight may actually be better suited for your application.
Solar: I already have a battery but I want your solar charge controller, will it work?
It depends on which model you select but we will have a model which will work for you. If you already have a LiFePO4 battery, you can use any one of our standard models but if you have a different model chemistry or a battery which falls between 24V-48V there will be restrictions. Our model performance are as such:
- SC-1220JU - this is the MPPT version in 12V only with 20A maximum rated output and is optimized for fixed installations utilizing LiFePO4 batteries and does not come with a digital display.
- SC-122420JUD - this is the PWM version optimized for portability, can do 12V or 24V at 20A maximum and is the unit you would select for portable use. This model can do any chemistry.
- SC-4830JUD - this PWM version will do any voltage between 12V to 48V in any chemistry and has a maximum rated output of 30A. This is the recommended unit for most applications and is compatible with most commercially available batteries.
Solar: How do I connect my solar system, is there a specific order?
Yes. There is a specific order to connecting a solar system. A solar charge controller does not have an inbuilt battery. It is in essence a naked circuit board with output ports so it is important that the solar charge controller is "turned on" first before use. This is important because a solar charge controller needs to "see" the battery it is being used with and to synchronize with it first before any panel is added. That way the solar charge controller will properly regulate the panel you attached for the battery it is attached to. You are regulating a solar panel to work with your battery not the other way around. Your solar panel is always second to your battery. The proper order is as such:
- Attach solar charge controller to battery input port - this will turn on your charge controller and allow it to see your battery.
- Attach solar panel to solar charge controller - do this only after you attached the battery and never before otherwise your solar charge controller may not regulate voltage and current appropriately.
- Attach load to your battery - you always want to discharge from the battery and let the solar top off the battery as you are using it because this will ensure you have a smooth and continuous output.
- Disconnect in reverse order, removing first load then panel and battery last. A proper shutdown sequence is safest for both the battery and the load.
Remember: just because your controller is properly regulating voltage and current does not mean that the voltage and current will not fluctuate. Voltage should not change dramatically but current will vary depending on how much sun you are receiving. This is why you always discharge through your battery because a good battery will not give out fluctuating discharge.
Solar: Can I charge and discharge simultaneously with solar?
Yes. You can charge and discharge simultaneously but only if you are using a solar charge controller. This is because of the design and intended purpose of a solar charge controller or solar regulator which is not to be confused with a charger or switching power supply. A solar charge controller is designed to balance charge and discharge and has the appropriate circuitry to allow you to safely do so. We do not recommend attempting the same procedure with the switching power supply charger sold with our batteries as doing so may result in long term degradation to the control board and cells in a manner which may detrimentally impact performance.
Solar: Should I use the load port on the solar charge controller?
For most end users, do not use the load port. We recommend all customers attach their load directly to the battery. Based on extensive tests and field experience, we have determined that the optimal setup is for the current to flow from the solar panel to the solar charge controller to the battery and from the battery directly to load. This ensures that your load is supplied with smooth and continuous voltage and current for your battery's rated capacity and serves to mitigate a solar panel's current output variance.
The load port is application specific. If you feel that you will need to use it or are unsure of whether or not you should use it, please contact us. We will help you through your application.
Solar: I'm ready to buy. What panel do I need?
It depends on two general questions: are you going stationary or portable and how fast do you need your battery to recharge? However, you must first understand the rule of thumb:
Just because a solar panel says it will deliver, for example 5 amps, does not guarantee it will deliver said 5 amps from dawn till dusk. All solar panels work on a bell curve so expect lower current at the beginning and end of each day with peak sun or peak efficiency during the noontime hours.
Once this is understood, it becomes easier to calculate which panel is required. Generally, it is recommended to first understand your battery's maximum charge current and obtain a panel which will meet that maximum charge current because that is the rate at which your battery has been optimized to charge at. A battery's maximum charge current is tested to give you the optimum charge speed while preserving battery longevity and performance. You will need to achieve the optimum balance between charge time and charge speed. Having an undersized panel setup will increase your charge time and will not give you the desired run-time but will not damage your battery. Having an oversized panel setup which hits your battery with sustained high current will shorten your recharge time but it may degrade the overall longevity of your battery.
General: Do I need a battery box or a similar case?
For fishermen, especially Kayak Fishermen, we strongly recommend you utilize a waterproof battery box to protect the battery. A battery box is critical for protecting your expensive battery in a marine environment from salt water, fresh water and any other environmental factors which may damage it. For other marine customers such as paddle boats, pontoon boats and other small personal watercraft, a dedicated watertight box is also strongly recommended. A good battery box will not only keep the battery sealed from the elements but will also help keep the battery from "bouncing around" aggressively as too much bouncing and vibrations is not ideal for any chemistry of battery. For bass boats and larger craft with dedicated compartments, we recommend using our batteries in a drop-in capacity to directly replace your old Lead Acid units.
A battery box is also a great way of building a custom "Pack" that gives you the flexibility of adding additional connectors and accessories based on your needs and requirements.
General: What is PVC, what is ABS, what's the difference?
We believe in offering our customers the widest selection covering most applications. As such, most of our batteries come in two form factors. The differences and similarities adhere to the following points:
- A PVC battery is electrically identical to its ABS counterpart. No, these are not different batteries. Yes, it is just a change in form factor or the external appearance.
- PVC is a close fitting shrink tube sleeve fitted over a fiber composite case. This form factor is our smallest and designed for applications where space and weight are at a premium. The fiber composite case underneath is designed to still give you structural protection. Please note that the internal cells and PCM are inside the fiber composite case.
- ABS is a hard plastic shell. We use standard Lead Acid/SLA/GEL/AGM cases as containers for our batteries to ensure maximum compatibility with customers who have already scaled their system around a particular case size and cannot change the design of their build. Essentially this is a drop in replacement.
- PVC packs can be differentiated from ABS packs based on their connectors. A PVC pack will have pre-wired connectors containing at least 1 Powerpole Connector. An ABS pack will have an "S" suffix and either Faston Connectors or Screw/Post Terminals. If it has wires coming out of one end, it is PVC. If it has two shinny pieces of metal on top either round or tab, it is ABS.
General: I am having troubles with my battery. How do I troubleshoot?
Always read the manual before you use our batteries. Doing so will prevent most of the common issues resultant from misuse. We cannot stress the importance of reading the manual enough. It is critical for proper usage of our batteries. The built-in PCM should protect the batteries against most incidents of unintentional misuse such as overcurrent, overvoltage, overcharging, overdischarge/undervoltage but it is up to the end user to understand the capabilities and limitations of the battery system they selected. The important information regarding correct usage and procedure can be located in our manual. In addition, we urge you to contact us if you have any questions regarding usage and applications.
If, however, the battery remains unresponsive or non-functional despite proper usage and procedure please contact us immediately. Even though we inspect each and every unit prior to shipment we cannot guarantee that we can catch every defective product. In the case of such an incident, coverage per warranty applies and we will do our utmost to accommodate any needs.
General: Is my battery appropriate for ______ usage?
If you have any questions about applications of our batteries, please contact us. Our experienced staff will assist you in whichever application you intend to use our power solutions for. It is important to understand that batteries are not one-size-fits-all. Different applications may require different types of batteries. Using the wrong battery for the wrong application may result in damage not only to the battery but to the device of intended usage as well. The stability of our LFP batteries and the safeguards provided by our PCM generally can prevent serious system failures but excessive abuse and/or misuse may still cause malfunctions. We urge our clients to take full advantage of our expertise in the field.
General: I'm a Ham, I have an Amateur Radio; which battery do I get?
You'd need three pieces of info: 1) Transmit Power in Watts, 2) Receive Power in Watts and 3) Percentage of time spent transmitting. Follow this formula:
(Transmit Watts x Percentage of Time Transmitting) + (Receive Watts x Percentage of Time Receiving) = Weighted Average Draw
Below are two run-time charts which simplify the calculations, but remember, you will still need to check to make sure your radio will not draw more current than the battery is rated for.That is an aspect which is difficult to account for completely because radio power draws differ between models, vintage and manufacturers.
General: What can I use your Power Pack products for?
Our Power Pack products are optimized for AC output and for personal electronic device recharging and not for high DC current output. Depending on your applications if you require high DC current, our Power Packs may not be the correct product for your application. If you are hiking and camping and require AC use and only need to charge a phone or tablet, we will have a Power Pack appropriately scaled for your application. Below are a few most common questions we have received many inquiries about:
- Can I power my refrigerator with this: Do NOT plug a full sized refrigerator into our Power Pack. A full size unit pulls 1000-2000+ Watts. Our Power Pack products are rated for small to medium sized travel coolers and refrigerators. Please check the power output for any home appliance before attaching to them to batteries. Home appliances were not originally intended for portable use and have extremely high power draw so be sure to understand how much you are pulling before you attempt it with actual equipment.
- What kind of gear can I run: depending on the model, you will either receive a 100 Watt Inverter, 300 Watt Inverter, or a 500 Watt inverter. This will run lights, small fans, small space heaters, and any other smaller personal electronic device, CPAP machine, medical equipment or scientific instrumentation. Television sets and speaker sets cannot be used.
- Can I put this in my trailer as the power source: This is for tents, pop-up campers, truck-bed campers and other campers and tents of a similar size. For full sized trailers, medium to large tow trailers, and RV's you will require a battery bank.
- Can I plug a solar panel right in: Yes, all of our Power Pack products are directly solar compatible.
- Is this a generator: It is a very specific type of generator. As a solar generator unlike its gasoline cousin it captures energy from the sun, stores it and delivers it to the load upon demand.
General: Can I charge my battery with my vehicle?
The answer varies depending on your make, model and vintage. Vehicles can run in a number of different voltages depending on what you have but typically when you charge a device with your vehicle you are tapping off the vehicle's alternator. As such there are a few details you will need to confirm:
- Is my alternator regulated: older cars will tap its output straight off of the car's alternator whereas newer cars have a "regulator" in between and depending on which variant you have it will affect your charge performance and may require additional equipment in order to safely charge.
- Is the voltage output between 13.8-15V: for our batteries while we highly recommend using our supplied charger, as long as your source can put out regulated voltage within 13.8-15V our battery will that the charge irregardless of source. Confirm first that your car can deliver voltage within this range.
Once you have determined that how your vehicle delivers current, the next step is to determine your setup. We always recommend using a DC-DC converter which can regulate voltage and current as the safest option. If you have an RV then you will need to reconcile a few more aspects:
- My RV does not have an existing charging system: you will need a quality DC-DC converter or depending on how many batteries you are running a Multi-Chanel Charger to support your battery/battery bank.
- My RV has a charging system already: you can drop our batteries right in without issue but confirm first the voltage output is within the acceptable range of 13.8-15V.
- I need multiple batteries: not all system runs 12V, different systems have different current and capacity requirements and if you do require multiple batteries in a single system, make sure you buy the batteries at the same time and ask/check to make sure they are from the same batch with matching serial numbers, this is absolutely critical!
Before any purchase, make sure to understand your load draw. Understanding how much power you are pulling is critical to building a system that can give you the run-time you desire at the the power levels you require. Doing the proper calculations is not difficult, it just takes some time but that is why we are here. Give us a call at +1 888 336 7864 if you need help or have uncertainties.
General: I have another charging system, can I use it or do I need to replace it?
Again, that will depend on the specifications of the system in question. While we do strongly recommend you use our charging systems, if that is not an option please consult the compatibility determination requirements below:
- I have a charger from a previous battery: as long as you can provide a regulated voltage between 13.8-15V and a regulated current that does not exceed the selected battery's maximum charge current rating you can use your existing charger. This is only if your existing charger can be set to discharge within the acceptable range listed above. If your existing charger cannot be reset, do not use it to charge our products as it becomes unsafe to do so.
- I have a boat, it comes with a charging system: you can go ahead and drop our batteries right in without too many problems, but before you do so confirm the charge voltage.
- I have a motorcycle: you can go ahead and drop our batteries right in without too many problems.
- I have an RV and it has a battery bank I am replacing: you can go ahead and drop our batteries right in without too many problems but before you do so confirm the charge voltage.
- I have a vehicle but no on-board auxiliary battery charging system: we recommend you always to through a quality DC-DC converter that can regulate voltage and current. It is much more efficient than going from alternator to inverter to charger to battery and significantly safer than plugging a battery directly into your car's car socket.
If you have any questions or uncertainties, it is best to contact us first before proceeding. We offer free consultation services your application.
General: How much power do I have left in my battery, how can I tell?
A Bioenno Power Lithium Iron Phosphate battery is not like traditional batteries. With a traditional battery such as an SLA/AGM/GEL the voltage drop is linear and proportional to discharge. Our batteries will not show voltage drop until the end of the battery's rated capacity upon which the battery will automatically shut off. With our battery you will need a device called an "In-Line Watt Meter" which is attached between your battery and your load. There are numerous vendors and companies that make this device but we recommend the Powerwerx Watt Meter as one of the best options. They carry a variety of models which can be found below:
General: Can I jump a lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) battery using a lithium jumper or other jump starter ?
No. Do not jump a lithium iron phosphate battery with a lithium jump starter or other types of jump starter. Lithium jump starters put out significant amounts of current that can damage the battery and jump starter. Use only a power supply or AC-to-DC charger that uses low current for charging the batteries. Jumping will damage the battery or jumper. If the battery does not take a charge from the regular AC-to-DC charger or DC-to-DC charger, contact Bioenno Power.
General: I noticed the Max and Peak Continuous Discharge on the label may be different from the website and why?
The printed label may be rated to 1C Max Continuous or 2C peak. However, for some models of batteries including the BLF-1212A, BLF-1212AB, BLF-1215A, BLF-1215AS, and BLF-1220A, 30 Amp and 40 Amp PCM/BMS boards have been installed. The de-rating on the label to 1C is mentioned to ensure the battery can deliver more than 2,000 to 3,000 cycles. However, rest assured these batteries can deliver the 23 Amps for your ham radio equipment which has a duty cycle of 20% transmit and 80% receive. If you operate continuous at the 2C discharge (with no duty cycle), the cycle life is a bit less to about 1,800 to 2,000 cycles instead of 2,000 to 3,000 cycles.